Organic Handmade Soap Recipes

Organic Soap Recipes

Soap Making Instructions
This information is the general procedure for making cold processed soap at home. For detailed safety information, soap recipes and complete detailed specialized instructions including bits of information on incorporating herbs and other wonderful ingredients, get the book: Country Living's Handmade Soap, Recipes for Crafting Soap at Home. The jacket cover is pictured above and features the Creation Soap oval oak style bar in the center. The book is currently in its 7th printing!

General Procedure for Cold Process Recipes

Put on eye protection and rubber gloves.

Place the weighed amount of solid fats that need melting in your recipe into a stainless steel stock pot for the stove top or suitable container for the microwave and heat gently until the fats become liquid. When these fats have become liquid combine with the other weighed amounts of oils for your recipe and check the temperature with your thermometer. Be sure the thermometer doesn't touch the bottom of the container and give a false reading. Now either heat or cool the fats and optional ingredients to the temperature specified in the recipe.

Measure the amount of cool or tepid water (65 to 75 degrees F) specified in the recipe. Cool water is important. Combining lye with water that is too hot can cause a volcanic type eruption of lye solution that can be quite dangerous as well as a major pain to clean up, please donít ask me how I know this, just believe it. On the other hand if your water is too cool the solution may not reach a high enough temperature needed for some recipes. Stirring the water, slowly add the lye. The water will get real hot and turn cloudy as the lye dissolves in the water. Continue stirring until the lye dissolves thoroughly. Remember not to breathe these fumes directly and wear your face mask when mixing the lye & water. At this point check the temperature of the solution. We will need to match the temperature of the lye solution to the temperature of the oils at the temperature specified in the recipe. To help accomplish this I usually bring up the liquid oil temperature by adding the melted oils, while bringing down the lye solution temperature in a cool water bath. Checking both the lye solution and oil temperatures every few minutes. When the lye solution gets within 5 to 10 degrees of the temperature Iím looking for Iíll add it to my pouring jar (as I described earlier). Since the glass jar will be at room temperature it will usually pull that last few degrees into the glass of the jar bringing it to the desired temperature. The idea is to get the lye solution and the oils to the same temperature at the same time. This gets easier as you get more experienced. Tips: It takes the lye water longer to cool than the fats to melt. If you get the fats too hot, the lye solution will get too cool before the fats have cooled. In this case set your lye solution in a hot water bath to hold it hot enough until the fats begin to cool to the desired range.

Now to begin mixing the soap I start slowly drizzling the lye/water from my modified mayonnaise type jar into the fats while stirring rather briskly(not fast, just faster and more intently than slow, making sure to mix all parts of the container as I am stirring). With my larger batches poured into a single mold the temperature seems more critical than small batches poured into smaller molds. I have quite often poured small batches into individual molds at a slightly higher temperature without any problems. I have found that most recipes will work quite well mixing them fairly close to 100 degrees. If you use fats with higher than normal melt temps such as 96 degree coconut oil(as opposed to the 76 degree which is more readily available)or 107 degree palm kernel oil(as opposed to the 86 degree palm oil more readily available)then I recommend increasing the blending temperature to between 110 to 120 degrees. For recipes using beeswax you'll need to increase the temperatures to about 130 degrees as most beeswax melts at about 147 degrees and will not blend properly below the melt temperature.

After combining the fats with the lye solution youíll need to keep stirring until the reaction is nearing completion and begins to "trace". Tracing is when you can drizzle soap from the spoon onto the surface of the soap and the line of soap dripping from the spoon retains it shape for a few seconds. After you have stirred for fifteen or twenty minutes and you soap has not traced you can take a rest for ten minutes or so checking it every few minutes in case it changed gears. Then come back and stir for a while and break for a while until it traces. My soaps usually trace within the first half hour but sometimes take 1 to 2 hours. If you can write your name on the top of the soap with the spoon itís tracing. This is the point where you add your essential oils and herbs if any and stir until blended. When making larger batches that Iím pouring into individual molds Iíve found I need to add the essential oils and begin pouring into the molds slightly before trace in order to get it all poured before it sets too much to pour(it will begin to thicken in the pitcher and become too stiff to work with the spoon).

Organic Handmade Soap Recipe:




12 OZ sodium hydroxide (Lye)

28 oz Tepid water

1 oz Essential Oil

Organic Coffee and Cream Glycerin Soap

This soap is for the coffee lovers in your life. It has a deep brown color and smells like fresh coffee when you use it.


1 4oz. bar unscented glycerin soap 1 teaspoon organic ground espresso 1 teaspoon powdered milk 10 drops coffee essential oil


In a small saucepan over low heat, melt the bar of glycerin soap until liquefied. Remove from heat and stir in organic ground espresso, powdered milk, and coffee essential oil. Pour soap into a mold and let set for three hours or until hardened.

Organic Lemon Loofah Soap

This delightful soap smells like fresh lemons, and when the powdered loofah is mixed in, it will make the soap a extra exfoliating. Loofah, a plant that grows much like the cucumber, can be dried, shredded, and added to soap.

Note: To make the powder, loofah can be cut up into tiny pieces using a pair of sharp scissors, or you can purchase it in powder form.


1 4oz. bar unscented glycerin soap 1 teaspoon powdered loofah 15 drops lemon oil 1 drop red food coloring


In a small saucepan over low heat, melt your bar of glycerin soap until liquefied. Remove from heat and stir in powdered loofah, lemon oil, and food coloring. Pour soap into a mold and let set for three hours, or until hardened.

Raspberry Oatmeal Soap


1 4oz. bar unscented glycerin soap 1/3 cup dried oats 15 drops raspberry fragrance oil 1 drop red food coloring


Place 1/3 cup oats in a food processor and grind until it becomes powdery. Set aside. In a small saucepan over low heat, melt your bar of glycerin soap until liquefied. Remove from heat and stir in ground oats, raspberry fragrance oil, and food coloring. Pour soap into a mold and let set for three hours, or until hardened. This easy-to-make soap is great for the complexion.

Layered Soaps

This recipe creates two bars of luxurious layered soap. Use your two favorite fragrances to make your soap. Some of Kelly's favorite combinations are mango and strawberry, violet and musk, chocolate and orange, cinnamon and rose, and raspberry and peach.


2 4oz. bars unscented glycerin soap 10 drops fragrance oil (your choice) 10 drops fragrance oil (your choice) 2 drops different colored food coloring (ex. 1 orange, 1 blue)


In a heavy saucepan over low heat, melt one bar of glycerin soap until liquefied. Remove from heat and stir in one drop food coloring and 10 drops fragrance oil. Pour half of the mixture into two soap molds, filling each mold halfway. Wait twenty minutes. Melt your second bar of glycerin soap until liquefied. Remove from heat and stir in the other drop of food coloring and fragrance oil. Pour this second layer on top of the first layer (already in molds). Let soap set for three hours or until hardened. Your finished bars should come out half one color and half another.

Wild Cherry Bubble Bath


1/2 cup unscented shampoo 3/4 cup water 1/2 teaspoon salt - regular table salt is fine 15 drops cherry fragrance oil 2 drops red food coloring


Pour unscented shampoo into a bowl and add water. Stir gently until well mixed. Add salt, and stir until mixture thickens. Add cherry fragrance oil and food coloring, and place in decorative bottle. To use, add one tablespoon to warm running bath water.

Note: To create your own custom scent, you may use any fragrance oil you choose in this recipe.

Shower Gel


1/2 cup unscented shampoo 3/4 cup water 3/4 teaspoon salt - regular table salt is fine 15 drops lime fragrance oil 1 drop green food coloring


Pour unscented shampoo into a bowl and add water. Stir gently until well mixed. Add salt and stir until mixture thickens. Add lime fragrance oil and food coloring. Pour mixture into decorative bottle.

You may use any fragrance oil you choose in this recipe to create your own custom scent. Kids like bubblegum-scented shower gel. Add a teaspoon of powdered loofah to your shower gel for an exfoliating scrub. Peppermint Hair Conditioner Ingredients:

1/2 cup cholesterol-type conditioner - available at beauty supply shops and drug stores 3/4 cup water 15 drops peppermint essential oil 1 drop red food coloring (optional, for a pink color)


Combine all ingredients in a bowl, and stir until well blended. Pour into decorative bottle.

For oily hair, add one tablespoon aloe vera gel to your conditioner. It will help moisturize without excess oil. For dry hair, add one tablespoon of corn oil to your conditioner. Bath Sponge Materials:

1 yard bridal illusion - fine fabric available in most fabric stores 1 yard satin ribbon


Lay the fabric out on a flat surface and fold it in thirds as you would fold a letter. Starting at one end, scrunch the fabric together, working your way to the opposite end. Tie a knot around the center of the gathered fabric. Now, gather the two loose ends of the ribbon together, and tie into a second knot.

Hang your sponge over the shower head or bath spout. Wash you sponge by hand using Woolite and let air dry.

Glycerin Soap

Glycerin soaps, so simple to make, are naturally gentle, moisturizing and emollient. All sorts of visual effects can be created when ingredients are added to the translucent base. Enjoy creating your own stunning variations of this basic recipe.

Equipment needed

Double boiler Candy thermometer Wooden or metal spoon Soap mold


1 pound glycerin soap 1 tablespoon water 1/3 oz essential oil

Cut soap into chunks and place in double boiler. Add water and melt over medium heat. Cover to keep the soap from foaming on top due to air exposure. If a skin begins to form on the surface, simply skim it off with a flat knife blade. Heat the soap to approximately 158 degrees. Once soap is completely melted turn heat off and add essential oil. Stir gently to avoid creating foam. Pour slowly into mold. Allow soap to cool for 2 hours before removing then wrap in plastic wrap and store in a cool dry place.

Many ingredients can be added to this basic recipe once the soap has melted such as color chips, dried flowers, oatmeal, beeswax, and honey . If adding more than 1 tablespoon of liquid per pound you must add the same amount in solid. For example, if you add more than 1 Tbsp. Of honey you must add the same amount in oats.

Salt scrub

This scrub is an amazing exfoliant that imparts a radiant glow while stimulating circulation of the blood and lymph systems. All but the most sensitive skin types can safely use the salt scrub. It can double as a bath salt by simply reducing the amount of oil to your desired amount and reducing the essential oil amount to approx. 10 drops. You can then use the entire amount in your bath.

2/3 cup sea salts 1/3 cup Epsom salts 1 tbsp. Bentonite clay 1/3 cup Calendula infused oil 20-25 drops of essential oil

Combine salts and clay in a small mixing bowl. Stir in the Calendula infused oil. You may substitute a cold pressed oil or another infused oil. Add the essential oil and pour into a glass jar. The scrub may be used all over the body, either on dry or slightly damp skin, just prior to bathing or showering.

Milk Bath

Cleopatra, rumored to have beautiful skin, was said to have taken daily milk baths. Milk is rich in proteins, calcium, and vitamins that are easily absorbed by the skin while bathing. Also high in minerals is the bentonite clay which comes form ancient volcanic ash beds. Apricot kernel oil, which is slightly lighter than sweet almond oil, adds to the silky luxury of this wonderful bath. Many combinations of essential oils and flowers can be added to create an unlimited number of fragrant experiences.

5 oz powdered milk 2 oz sea salt Ĺ oz bentonite clay 1 tsp. Apricot kernel oil Small pinch powdered orris root 25-30 drops essential oil 1 tsp. Dried flowers (such as lavender, chamomile, rose petals)

Mix the milk, salt, and clay together in a small mixing bowl. Slowly, while stirring add the apricot kernel oil. Next add the orris root. Add the essential oils and mix well using a wire whisk or metal fork. Gently fold in the dried flowers. Place in a decorative 8oz jar. Cap tightly and use within 3 months.

Bath Bombs

Fizzy and fragrant, bath bombs make great gifts. Children not only love to toss one into their bath, but they love to be part of the production. I recently had a bath bomb workshop with my sonís second grade class. Many moms received their childís bath bomb for Christmas and were amazed that their child had produced such a luxurious treat.


2 cups baking soda ĺ cups citric acid 1 tbsp. Sweet almond oil Pinch powered orris root 1 tbsp. Dried botanicals (optional) 20-30 drops essential oil Hydrosol/hydrolat spritzer or distilled water spritzer

Mix baking soda, citric acid, and orris root in a medium mixing bowl. While stirring, drizzle sweet almond oil into the bowl. Add essential oil one drop at a time and mix thoroughly. Gently fold in botanicals. While stirring spritz floral water very slowly taking care not to wet the mixture to the point of fizzing. Spritz until the mixture is damp and just barely able to clump between your fingers. Press into molds; metal cookie cutters work great. Let sit for 5 minutes before removing. Allow to dry on wax paper for 8-10 hours. Wrap in plastic wrap to preserve aroma.

TIP: for maximum aroma use within 3 weeks. Bombs can be used later after aroma has diminished. Simply add 5-7 drops of essential oil to an individual bomb just before use.

Light Bath Oil

Grapeseed and apricot kernel oil are two very light fruit oils that will leave you feeling luxuriously silky but not heavily oiled after your bath. Glycerin holds moisture to your skin while adding to the silkiness of this wonderful bath treat.

5 oz cold pressed Grapeseed oil 2 oz apricot kernel oil 1 tbsp. Vegetable glycerin 5ml (1/16 oz) essential oil

Combine ingredients in a glass measuring cup and stir well. Pour into an 8 oz glass bottle. One tablespoon of modified lecithin may be added to this recipe to help avoid the oily ring that bath oils leave in the tub. The bath oil will be more evenly distributed throughout the water. When using the bath oil add desired amount to bath after the tub has been filled. Swish the oil around and enjoy.

Calendula Moisture cream

This cream is a wonderfully rich moisturizer that can be used as a day cream for normal to dry skins and as a night cream for any skin type. It is imbued with the healing properties of Calendula, highly valued by the ancient Egyptians as a rejuvenating herb.


3oz coconut oil 2oz apricot kernel oil 2 oz grapeseed oil 2 ox sweet almond oil Ĺ oz calendula infused oil Ĺ oz beeswax 1 tsp. Cocoa butter 2 oz strong calendula tea 6 oz distilled water 2 oz aloe vera gel

Combine the first 7 ingredients in a small saucepan and melt over a low heat. Remove from heat immediately when melted. Pour the mixture into a glass measuring cup and allow to cool to room temperature. Pour tea, distilled water, and aloe vera gel into a blender. These must also be at room temperature. Turn the blender to its highest speed and very slowly add the cooled oils. Blend until the cream gets thick and white. At this time the blender will begin making sputtering sounds, signaling that the cream has reached the proper consistency. Turn blender off and pour the cream into glass jars. Add essential oils, 7-10 drops per ounce, and stir well. Adding the essential oils after you have separated the cream into jars allows you to have several creams for different purposes.

TIP: Be sure the temperatures of the oils and waters are the same to avoid separation in the cream. The two groups could be combined at any temperature as long as they match. You could melt the oils and heat the waters to the same temperature on candy thermometers (175 degrees). If separation does occur, simply shake before using.

Lip Balm

Children as well as adults love to use flavored lip balm. Citrus essential oils such as tangerine, lemon, lime and orange are especially yummy. Peppermint is great too. With other essential oils this recipe can also be used as a cuticle cream.

1 tbsp. Beeswax 3 tbsp. Sweet almond oil 1 tsp. Honey 8-10 drops essential oil

In a small saucepan melt beeswax with the sweet almond oil over a low heat. When the wax has just melted remove from heat. Add the honey and stir well. When the mixture begins to cool, but before it gets thick, add the essential oils. Pour into small lip balm jars or tubes.

TIP: The glossiness of the lip balm is determined by the amount of vegetable oil used. This recipe has a slight gloss. If less glass is desired reduce the amount of sweet almond oil by 1 teaspoon.

After Shave Splash

This fragrant splash is refreshing and invigorating for any skin type. Witch hazel is a natural, mild astringent that also relieves minor skin irritations that can occur with shaving. The glycerin adds a slight silkiness while holding moisture to the skin. The rum and fruit are also mildly astringent while imparting a beautiful look and fragrance.

7oz witch hazel extract 3 oz mineral or distilled water 1 oz dark rum 2 tbsp. Vegetable glycerin 2 strips of orange peel 2 spiral strips of lemon peel 1 sprig of mint 10 whole dried cloves 1 cinnamon stick 4-5 ml essential oil (recommend Bay Laurel Ė Laurus nobilis)

Place fruit and spices into a decorative glass jar. Pure maple syrup jars work well. Combine the witch hazel, water, rum and glycerin in a measuring cup, stir well, then pour into the glass bottle. Add essential oil and shake gently. The after-shave is ready for use. However, after a week the aroma is more mature because the fruits and spices have fully infused the liquid. You can get creative with the spices you choose to add to this recipe. Allspice, vanilla beans, rosehips and rosemary sprigs are a few added possibilities. Essential oils that have worked well as a blend in this recipe are bay laurel, cedarwood, clove bud, sweet orange, patchouli, and ylang ylang.

Dry Shampoo

Clays have been used since ancient times because of their ability to cleanse and their rich mineral content. This dry shampoo is a great time saving cleanser when you are on the go. As the clay absorbs dirt and oil, the essential oils cleanse and refresh your scalp. White clay is good for all hair types while green clay is especially good for oily hair. Bentonite clay, coming form ancient volcanic ash beds, is extremely rich in trace minerals. Pack some of the whole family on your next camping trip.


6 tbsp. White or green clay 2 tbsp. Bentonite clay 2 tbsp. Cornstarch 30 drops lavender essential oil 25 drops rosemary essential oil

Mix dry ingredients in a small glass or metal bowl. Stir in essential oils one drop at a time, measuring for desired aroma concentration. Pour or funnel the resulting mixture into a shaker bottle or other glass bottle. Spice bottles work well. To use: Section hair into parts and shake small amounts of shampoo near scalp along the parted lines. Using your finger tips, massage evenly all over scalp then brush hair.